2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Felix

Opaque ruby. Wild, borderline feral and smoky on the nose, which displays scents of cherry, blackberry and sandalwood. Deeply pitched dark fruit flavors show a meaty quality and become sweeter with air. Finishes with serious punch and grip, the cherry and smoke notes echoing. Shows a lot of impressively deep fruit but this wine's funky aspects won't be for everyone.

Slightly better, the 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee de Felix reminded me of a high class Pomerol. Notes of mulberries, kirsch, figs, damp earth, forest floor and spice box are present in this round, gracious, generous, full-bodied effort. Enjoy it now and over the next 10-15 years. As at many Chateauneuf du Pape estates, brothers Jean and Jean-Paul Versino have 38 acres of vines split among 27 different parcels, nearly equally divided between the southern and northern sectors of the appellation. The Chateauneuf du Pape Tradition is a blend of 65% Grenache and the rest equal parts Syrah and Mourvedre as well as tiny dollops of such obscure grapes as Cinsault and Counoise. The luxury offering, Cuvee de Felix, comes from 80-100 year old vines and is composed of 65% Grenache, 25% Mourvedre, 5% Syrah and 5% miscellaneous varietals. The traditional cuvee is aged in wood foudres and the Cuvee de Felix in small, old oak barrels. The 2010s reveal denser purple colors as well as more acidity, structure and tannin, fruit and extract. Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191

More structured than the straight ’09 and showing a more meaty, masculine profile, the 2009 Domaine Bois de Boursan Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée des Félix is a blend of 65% Grenache, 25% Mourvèdre, 5% Syrah, and the remainder an assortment, that’s all aged for 20 months in very old barrels. Smelling like a Provencal market and boasting brilliant, rustic aromas of roasted herbs, dried blood, garrigue, licorice, leather, and baked plum on the nose, this full-bodied, old school Châteauneuf-du-Pape delivers stunning concentration, burly structure, and a classically styled, long, tannic finish. I’m a huge fan, but have to admit to being slightly worried that this will dry out prior to bottling. Time will tell and I can’t wait to try this from bottle.