2000 Henri Giraud Grand Cru Ay Fut de Chene
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Tasting notes
Made in miniscule quantities (just 2,000 bottles) the wine is the first creation of what would go on to become “Argonne”. A vintage cuvee (2000 vintage) with grapes sourced from their top Grand Cru vineyards in Ay and matured for 12 months in 100% new oak barrels, hand selected by the Giraud team from the Argonne forest. The wine was matured on its lees for 10 years and 258 bottles were disgorged on 18th May 2010, which have been released by the estate today. Following our interview with Chef du Cave Sebastien Le Golvet last week, we found out the extraordinary lengths they go to in producing these remarkable Champagnes. With both the terroir of the Argonne forest and the Ay vineyards harmonising to create one of the richest and complex Champagnes ever produced. This cuvee is not only one of the rarest made at the domaine, but also one of the most important, paving the way for the creation of one of Champagne’s most prestigious and iconic cuvees. To the eye, golden colour with pretty pink highlights, the colour tints seem to have captured sunshine, taking on a honeyed air. To the nose, with its exceptional intensity, this complex and gourmet nose is the signature of Giraud Style. The pear and dried cherry express the year’s generosity…then a succession of thyme, cocoa, pepper, dried flower, morel mushroom and meat gravy aromas highlight the terroir in the finish : limestone and curry. This is a nose at the very summit of the champagne hierarchy in the 2000 Vintage. To the palate, the initial impact is supple, smooth effervescence before its body takes over, rich and full. Its vinosity sets the tempo, well balanced with acidity of great quality. The whole is rich, substantial, broad and creamy, with attractive tactile qualities. The finish is particularly aromatic and long-tasting, extremely round with a dash of the freshness that evokes the terroir of Ay.
Critic scores
Average Score
David Schildknecht, Vinous
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
Lightly toasted almond, hazelnut, and wheat mingle with cidery apple and fresh lemon on the nose and expansive, infectiously juicy palate of Giraud’s 2000 Brut Fut De Chene. Intimations of ocean breeze waft from the glass as well, anticipating a strikingly saline and alkaline streak on the palate that follows mouthwateringly in a long, gripping finish. A seemingly relatively low-pressure impingement of CO2 reinforces the broad and texturally plush aspects of this bottling; the task of preserving vivacity can meantime safely be turned- over to its lively and insistent supply of lemon and tart-edged apple juiciness. Plan to follow bottles for at least half a dozen years. Claude Giraud – with whom I have corresponded but have yet to meet – farms 22 acres in Ay, supplemented by purchased fruit. He has become a vocal champion of wood from the local forests of the Argonne, although oak of diverse origins fills out his extensive barrel regimen. Rich, at times positively sumptuous; forceful, sometimes downright powerful; Giraud’s Champagnes make a bold statement that won’t resonate with every lover of this appellation’s wines. And given their prices, even if they weren’t scarce, only a small percentage of wine lovers would be able to access them. To me, they are not just impressive – at times exceptionally so – in their own right, but illustrate the glorious stylistic malleability of Champagne’s grapes and terroirs. I’ll look forwarding to visiting Giraud next year and reporting in much more detail on his stylistic vision and projects as well as his individual cuvees. (I did not taste any recent releases from Giraud’s “Esprit de Giraud” series of tank-raised cuvees.) Imported by Great Signature Wines LLC, Atlanta, GA; tel. (404) 984-8700; and Old World Wines, Miramar Beach, FL; tel. (850) 225-0663
The 2000 Brut Fût de Chêne is the last in a series of wines that goes back to 1990. Honey, almonds, chamomile and dried apricots all flesh out in a rich, textured Champagne loaded with personality. Aging in oak gives the wine much of its power, breadth and pure richness. There is a lot to like in the 2000 Fût de Chêne, although I have to admit I like the direction of the new MV bottling a bit more. Still, this is a drop-dead gorgeous wine. Warm, oxidative overtones add a baritone register to the finish that is highly appealing. The 2000 is 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay, vinified in oak barrels, 20% of which were new.
(made from 70% pinot noir and 30% chardonnay): Bright gold. Pungent aromas of peach pit, cherry, candied rose and woodsmoke, with a suave vanilla nuance in the background. Fleshy and expansive, offering powerful orchard fruit and red fruit flavors braced by gentle acidity. Finishes with very good energy and lift, trailing notes of smoke and vanilla.
About the producer
Henri Giraud is one of the most exciting and pioneering Champagne houses today. Based in Äy, the property’s story begins in the early 17th century, when the Hémart family settled in the region.