1986 Krug Clos du Mesnil

The wines from the mid-1980s were very good, but not as viscerally thrilling as some of the very top vintages. I am not sure why these wines were served last; I imagine some of us wanted to get to the legendary vintages right away! It didn't much matter, though, as the small group setting gave everyone a chance to revisit their favorite vintages. The 1986 Clos du Mesnil, from magnum, is an understated wine that has been very well preserved by the large format. Here, too, I would choose to drink any remaining bottles in the near future.

Deep, soil-inflected nose combines coffee, mushroom, toffee, roasted grain and minerals. Extremely concentrated and penetrating, with powerful minerality and soil character and notes of key lime and green cardamom. Bracing acids give this single-vineyard Champagne great vinosity and back-end grip. Still quite young but rounding into shape.