1996 Bienvenues Batard Montrachet

Although not quite as ethereal as the 1992, the 1996 Bienvenue Batard Montrachet does not disappoint, and at 18 years young, will continue to offer great pleasure for many years. It has a tangible mineral intensity, just a slight reduction that seems to blow away, followed by fabulous granitic scents that are stern and terse, almost aloof. The palate is underpinned by a killer line of acidity and wonderful salinity. Again, there is just a touch of reduction here, but that does not detract from a magnificent, majestic Bienvenue that is perhaps only just beginning to hits its stride.

(with thanks to David Page). I have had more than a little bottle variation with one example that was so heavily reduced with so much sulfur on the nose that it never did entirely blow off, even after several hours. By contrast, the most recent bottle was outstanding with a beautiful honeysuckle and elegant white fruit nose of really fine complexity that introduces medium weight, finely detailed, racy and pure flavors of real distinction and grace, not to mention truly impressive length. While this will clearly age for years to come, for my taste the initial hints of maturity are present and thus I would be drinking the '96 BBM over the next 10 to 15 years in this format. Allen Meadows, Burghound , jul. 2008