1989 Bienvenues Batard Montrachet

Leflaive's grands crus include an excellent 1989 Bienvenue-Batard-Montrachet, which was backward and unevolved, although still impressive. Although Leflaive's 1989s are top-notch, they are not as dramatic as one would expect from a vintage with the taste profile of 1989. I am not even sure if Leflaive's 1989s are as brilliant as their 1985s or 1986s. All of the great Burgundy domaines have a certain signature to their wines that is more recognizable than any perceived terroir character. In the case of the Domaine Leflaive (a reference point for all who cherish the finest in Chardonnay) that personality is one of uncompromising elegance, finesse, and purity of flavor. Anyone who has visited Leflaive has seen more water hoses than owned by the local fire department. Why? This is a domaine maniacal about pristine conditions in the cellars. The results, even in lighter vintages such as 1987, are admirable. The finest wines, of course, are the grands crus, but the biggest sleepers of the firm are the delicate Puligny-Montrachet-Les Pucelles and the fatter, richer, more husky Puligny-Montrachet-Les Combettes. Importer: Frederick Wildman and Co., New York, NY.