1996 Bienvenues Batard Montrachet

The Carillons' 1996 Bienvenue-Batard-Montrachet is one of the finest wines I have tasted from this grand cru vineyard. Regrettably, as is so often the case with stunning wines, it is exceedingly rare. The domaine produced only 67 cases, a whopping two of which were sold to their largest US importer (Vineyard Brands). After a year in 50% new oak, it was transferred to 4 year old barrels as the Carillons do not want the wine to be overly marked by wood. It displays rich, deep, expansive, and toasty aromas and a stunningly clear, bright and ripe personality. This wine possesses an oily texture and full body, yet is superbly-focused by its vibrant acidity. It is jam-packed with minerals, cardamon, candied lemons, earth, and honeysuckle. This extraordinary Bienvenue-Batard-Montrachet has mind-boggling depth, richness and length. Bravo! The rating, with the range of scores in parentheses, indicates the wine was tasted from cask, not bottle. A slender, serious, and obviously dedicated man, Jacques Carillon loves the structure and ageworthiness of his family's 1996s. He compared the aging of a wine to a wave, saying the optimum time to drink it is during its crests. He feels his '96s will be in the trough of the wave between 2000 and 2001, and should hit their first crest between 2003 and 2005. I tend to agree with his assessment, and will add what this modest man did not: these are absolutely fabulous examples of elegant, mineral-packed Pulignys that will offer years of enjoyment to those lucky enough to acquire them. Importers: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel (205) 980-8802, Neal Rosenthal, Select Vineyard, Shekomeko, NY; tel (800) 910-1990, Wine Markets International, Woodbury, NY; tel (516) 364-1850 and, under the "Cuvee Nicole" label, Fran Kysela, Winchester, VA; tel (540) 722-9228.