2011 Dalsheimer Hubacker Trocken Grosses Gewachs
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Tasting notes
The 2011 Riesling Dalsheimer Hubacker Grosses Gewächs from Weingut Keller demonstrated the immeasurable talent of Klaus-Peter Keller to such a degree that the following morning my friend sent a text enquiring where he could acquire bottles. As usual, I wisely asked the sommelier to decant the Riesling to watch it unfold in the glass. As suggested by its deep color, there is a hint of botrytis: dried honey, acacia flowers, saffron and crushed stone, all delivered with stunning delineation. The palate is underpinned by an absolutely killer line of acidity and a salinity that gets the saliva in a blather. Alchemically, this dry Riesling seems to expand in the glass, revealing more and more layers while retaining pin-point precision. Magnificent.
Critic scores
Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
Full bottle 1,465 g. Mid straw colour with quite a sheen. Some evolution on the nose with lime and mineral notes but still with extraordinary acidity on the palate. Almost more like a Grosset than a GG! Great smouldering intensity but still quite youthful. Impressive finish. I'm almost inclined to decant this before serving it with tonight's turbot! This wine seems to get younger and younger! (JR)
Corks had dried out most inconveniently. Lots of extract but also masses of freshness. Grapefruit peel and beguiling, ripe Riesling fruit. To be served with asparagus. Really mineral nose and very electrically energetic. (JR)
Those who have never had any self-doubt are not perfect but arrogant, and I have to admit that I am not sure about the 2011 Hubacker. If I wanted to, I could try and explain my lack of enthusiasm with the development in bottle of this individual sample. Under the veil of lanolin, I seemed to detect a hint of volatile acidity. Those who love baroque opulence and exotic fruit will definitely relish the taste. A sweet notion of caramel adds another luscious dimension. Totally relaxed and very accessible. Who’d be a purist? (MS)
About the producer
Based in the Rheinhessen, Keller is one of the finest Riesling producers in the world, and has set the benchmark for German Pinot Noir.