2009 Dalsheimer Hubacker Trocken Grosses Gewachs

23-28 October, 44 hl/ha. 12-18 hour skin contact. Big and broad and spicy. Gherkin and Wachau character. Complete. Tingling Very fresh. More exciting than the similar 2005. Deep and dense. Very complete without being fat. Sappy. Unusually open. So friendly! Long with undertow. (JR)

Keller’s 2009 Dalsheimer Hubacker Riesling Grosses Gewachs offers a somehow cooler but no less complex or mysterious floral bouquet – here suggestive of gentian and iris – than did its counterpart from 2008. Scents and saliva-inducing impingement of apple, fresh lime, chalk, and salt ignites an invigorating, almost levitating finishing interchange of fresh and distilled fruit, floral, fruit pit, and mineral elements. Dynamically bright yet coolly refreshing and with a striking, shimmering sense of clarity (but by no means cool in the stand-offish manner of the corresponding Kirchspiel), this beauty should be fascinating to follow over the next dozen or more years. No doubt Keller is correct – these are, after all, among his own precious children – in judging this Hubacker to be at a more expressive stage than the corresponding (in his words “shier, more restrained”) Kirchspiel, but I perceive the expression of brightness and minerality of Hubacker as inherently more engaging. Klaus-Peter Keller’s stylistic ideals and parameters – for more about whose application to vintage 2009 consult the quotes from him at two places in my introduction to this report – were aptly realized in a collection of Grosse Gewachse (all bottled in mid-August) that ranged from 12.5-13.5% in alcohol. “I can always cut away bunches,” he remarked apropos yields. “That merely means extra work. But you can’t hang new bunches on your vines, and in warm years, to have that third or fourth one is critical” to avoiding too rapid an accretion of sugar. The cool temperatures by the time he harvested his top sites in early November not only, claims Keller, offered the ideal circumstances for phenolic evolution and acid retention, but also for gentle extraction in the initial hours after harvest, when the fruit received the period of maceration that he believes is essential to getting at “the two-thirds of Riesling’s aromas are in its skin.” And as if the rest of the wines did not represent a sufficiently amazing performance, it concludes with no fewer than four Trockenbeerenauslesen (5 were planned, but the grapes left in Hubacker got rained-out), about which Keller claims not to know for sure whether it represents a record for his estate (though it definitely does for the period of his tenure, and – unbelievably – he repeated that record again in 2010). “Day in, day out we sorted grapes into the night,” relates Keller, but it should be borne in mind that the quantities of each of these T.B.A.s – as I have noted in each tasting note – remained minuscule. Keller is excited about 2009’s potential with Pinot as well, but surveying his finished 2008 Spatburgunder – all of which were moved solely by gravity, a forklift having served to elevate their assembled volumes for bottling – there is more than enough excitement generated by those as well to merit a search of the marketplace and to offer wine lovers a striking glimpse of the quality levels to which German Pinot Noir can successfully aspire. I’ll report on the 2009 reds next year. (For more about Keller’s governing principles with Riesling as well as Pinot, consult the introduction to my notes on his wines in issue 187.) Imported by Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608 9644, Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389-9463, and Frances Rose Imports Inc., Huntley, IL; tel. (815) 382 9533