2009 Hermitage Les Bessards

Every bit as profound as the 2010, yet in a more voluptuous, lower acid, hedonistic style, the inky colored 2009 Hermitage les Bessards (aged all in new French oak) offers incredible intensity and depth in its black raspberry, toasted bread, graphite and spice-like aromas and flavors. Full-bodied, massively endowed and with a wealth of raw material, it has high, yet sweet tannin and a finish that just won't quit. Give it 4-5 years and drink it over the following 3-4 decades. Unfortunately, this is made in tiny quantities, but count yourself lucky if you were able to grab a few bottles of either the '09 or '10.

Opaque purple. Heady scents of mineral-accented dark berries, cherry-vanilla, licorice and incense, along with a smoky topnote. Lush and creamy in texture, with incisive, palate-staining blackberry, blueberry and licorice pastille flavors. Silky tannins build on the finish, which leaves behind notes of blue fruit compote, vanilla and exotic spices. This wine is almost shockingly approachable now but is built for the long haul.

Inky violet color. Sexy, flamboyantly perfumed aromas of black raspberry, cherry-cola, mocha and vanilla, with seductive notes of patchouli and violet. Dense and creamy in texture, offering liqueur-like dark fruit flavors and exotic floral pastille and spice cake notes. Very ripe but lively, with excellent finishing clarity and sappy, mineral-dominated persistence.