2010 Chassagne Montrachet

Moreau’s 2010 Chassagne-Montrachet impresses for its weightless elegance. There is plenty of Chassagne character, but none of the heaviness that is common in this part of Burgundy. Layers of juicy yellow-toned fruits build to the textured, inviting finish. I find a lot to like in Moreau’s entry-level Chassagne. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. Domaine Bernard Moreau is quite possibly the single finest under the radar grower in Burgundy today. There are many more famous names in the Cote de Beaune, some of them in Chassagne itself, but it is here, in this small, family run domaine where many of the most elegant and harmonious wines of the village are found. Bernard Moreau’s son, Alex, told me yields were down from 10% for the villages to as much as 50% for the Grand Ruchottes. Moreau brought in his fruit starting on September 20th and reported a high incidence of shot berries and berries with very little juice. The wines spent 12 months in oak, with no racking, and were then moved into oak with their fine lees for another six months. Reliance on natural yeasts and a cold cellar ensure a gradual elevage that is one of the reasons these wines remain so vibrant and full of life. Importer: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 603-1461

Some rich creaminess on the nose. But then a bit dull on the finish. I am conscious of alcohol which is rare in a 2010. (JR)