2008 Cedric Bouchard Roses de Jeanne Les Ursules

From a south-facing parcel of Chardonnay planted with selections massales whose genetic diversity is immediately evident even to the untrained eye, Bouchard’s 2008 Brut Blanc de Blancs Haute-Lemple – whose vineyard of origin, like its vintage, is somewhat confusingly only displayed in small print on a back label – displays an intriguing and absorbing nose reminiscent of mussels steamed with herbs and mingled with smoky black tea, an impression that stimulates the salivary glands as it persists on the palate. The mousse here is so gentle and discreet you almost forget that you are drinking Champagne – which, I think, is Bouchard’s intention – yet their fineness beautifully segues into the satiny aspects of this wine’s texture and moreover reinforces its surprising sense of buoyancy. Generously juicy apple, grapefruit and lemon are tinged with hazelnut and chew of apple skin, and the onrush of maritime alkaline and saline elements in the finish is shared with the corresponding all-Pinot Ursules – in fact, it’s amazing how much the two wines have in common despite their different cepages – but here there is added mouthwatering savor of oyster liquor and steamed mussel stock. I imagine this will be worth following for at least half a dozen years. Nov 2013, www.eRobertParker.com, Drink 2013-2019