2010 Peby Faugeres

An absolutely prodigious, massively concentrated Saint-Emilion is the 2010 Peby Faugeres, which is 100% old vine Merlot, from a single parcel of south-facing limestone soils, brought up all in new oak. This beauty’s deep purple, almost blue, color is followed by a dense, backward bouquet of black and blue fruits, scorched earth, graphite, chocolatey oak, and an incredible minerality. More backward, dense, and brooding compared to the sexy 2009, hide bottle for another 3-4 years and enjoy over the following 20-25 years. It’s an awesome wine. This cuvee from Swiss owner Silvio Denz comes from a 7.45-hectare portion of the Faugères vineyard, which lies on the eastern edge of Saint-Emilion, on the Saint-Emilion/Castillon border. The parcel is mostly older vines and is a unique southeast facing slopes of brown limestone soils. It’s worth mentioning that Jean-Luc Thunevin’s blockbuster Valandraud cuvee comes from a site not far from here and this sensational wine is made with guidance from Stephan von Neipperg for the viticulture and famed consultant Michel Rolland for the winemaking. All these of these wines reviewed here are beautiful.

A very limited production cuvee, the 2010 Peby Faugeres is sold in a specially designed bottle from Silvio Denz, who also owns Lalique Crystal. It comes from the oldest portion of the Faugeres vineyard, which is actually more of a completely separate entity under Denz than it was under the previous owners. The 2010 is 100% Merlot and again 15% natural alcohol. The vines were cropped at 20 hectoliters per hectare, but harvested about a week before the harvest finished for the main Faugeres vineyard. Most observers would tend to look at this wine as a modern-style, massive, intense St.-Emilion, with an opaque purple color, a floral nose shaded by notes of blueberry liqueur intermixed with black raspberries, vanillin, subtle smoke and barrique smells. It is full-bodied and built for two decades of longevity, but should be reasonably drinkable in 5-6 years because of the 100% Merlot content. This is a thrilling wine, as it has been in nearly every vintage where it has been produced. Acquired by Swiss native Silvio Denz a number of years ago, this property continues to overachieve in virtually every vintage. Behind the scenes, Stephan von Neipperg, the proprietor of La Mondotte, Clos de l’Oratoire, and a number of other properties, consults on viticultural matters, while harvesting, winemaking and elevage are guided by Michel Rolland.

Blackish. So, so concentrated and exaggerated. Such a lot of apparent alcohol on the nose! Heady Cabernet aromas – very ripe. Almost tastes New World. Sweet and opulent with just a hint of oak. Very hedonistic and extreme – especially in terms of ripeness. Well made even if far from classically styled! Drying finish. Throughout the sweetness dominates and then tarry tannins. Very drying. Strictly for fans of mass and alcohol. St-Émilion’s answer to port?!  (JR)