2004 Peby Faugeres

Has the sort of cooked fruit that seems more Languedoc than Bordeaux. Creamy palate with finely ground tannins that are nonetheless still very grippy. Impressive ripeness yet savoury to finish. Manages to just – just – keep the new oak in check. Plenty of mileage still on the clock. (RH)

Dark ruby. Very modern and sweet and exaggerated. For trading not drinking! Tough end. Really very uncomfortable. (JR)

The estate’s luxury cuvee, the 2004 Peby Faugeres, is fashioned from the oldest slopes with the finest exposure (45-year-old, 100% Merlot vines). A blockbuster for the vintage, it boasts a dense ruby/purple color along with notes of graphite, black currants, blackberries, sweet cherry liqueur, toasty oak, and licorice. Dense, full-bodied, and powerful with elevated tannins as well as enough extravagant fruit and richness for balance, it will benefit from 2-3 years of bottle age, and should keep for two decades.