2005 Ayala Blanc de Blanc

Ayala’s 2005 Brut Blanc de Blancs delivers delightfully juicy apple, pear, lemon and grapefruit, their acid impression nicely buffered by lees-induced creaminess, and leading to an at once soothing and refreshing as well as impressively persistent finish lightly and invigoratingly tinged with chew and piquancy of apple skin and pit – if not especially intriguing or reflective of its origins in the prestigious communes of Avize, Chouilly and Le Mesnil. Certainly, though, this avoids any of the difficulties now so common among wines of its vintage. I would plan on enjoying it over the coming year. A branch of Champagne Bollinger for nearly a decade, Ayala seems – on the basis of their two recent wines I sampled – to be setting its sights considerably lower than does its parent house. But I’ll look forward at some point to revisiting their oeuvre. (The bottle I tasted of Ayala’s “basic” Brut Majeur was recommendable though not special, and since neither a lot number nor disgorgement date was indicated on its label or bottle, I have refrained from rating it.) Importer: Vintus, Pleasantville, NY; tel. (919) 769-3000

(disgorged July, 2012): Light gold. Aromas and flavors of poached pear, lemon curd and dried flowers, with a spicy topnote. Sappy and expansive, with good finishing cling, persistence and a lingering herbal quality.

Ayala’s 2005 Brut Blanc de Blancs delivers delightfully juicy apple, pear, lemon and grapefruit, their acid impression nicely buffered by lees-induced creaminess, and leading to an at once soothing and refreshing as well as impressively persistent finish lightly and invigoratingly tinged with chew and piquancy of apple skin and pit – if not especially intriguing or reflective of its origins in the prestigious communes of Avize, Chouilly and Le Mesnil. Certainly, though, this avoids any of the difficulties now so common among wines of its vintage. I would plan on enjoying it over the coming year. ||A branch of Champagne Bollinger for nearly a decade, Ayala seems – on the basis of their two recent wines I sampled – to be setting its sights considerably lower than does its parent house. But I’ll look forward at some point to revisiting their oeuvre. (The bottle I tasted of Ayala’s “basic” Brut Majeur was recommendable though not special, and since neither a lot number nor disgorgement date was indicated on its label or bottle, I have refrained from rating it.) eRobertParker.com.November, 2013