1997 Vilmart Coeur de Cuvee

The 1997 Coeur de Cuvee is a drop-dead gorgeous wine. A kaleidoscope of tar, smoke, licorice, fennel, rosemary, petrol and menthol notes have developed in bottle to complement the wine’s rich, honeyed fruit. This full-bodied, racy Champagne offers remarkable density and purity in a transcendental, hypnotic style. It is a must-have wine. This is the March 2008 disgorgement. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2018. Proprietor Laurent Champs makes some of the region’s most distinctive Champagnes. The Vilmart wines are characterized by an extreme sense of elegance, clarity and definition. The domaine’s eleven hectares of vineyards are planted with 60% Chardonnay, 36% Pinot Noir and 4% Pinot Meunier, with vine ages ranging from 35 to 55 years, clearly towards the older side of the spectrum in the region. Champs prefers oak aging for his wines. The entry-level wines are aged in cask, while the top selections spend time in smaller French oak barrels. Readers should note that the entry-level NV is available on a very limited basis in the US, and I was not able to taste it for this article. Therefore, this range begins with the Grand Cellier, which represents a significantly higher level than the straight NV. A Terry Theise Selection, imported by Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Green-tinged light yellow color. Deep and rich on the nose, with intense nutty notes and scents of ripe pear and oyster shell. Impressively concentrated Champagne, with flavors of quince and crisp pear and an almost painful impression of extract. This could be grand cru Chablis with bubbles. Weighty, full and long on the finish, with the nutty quality joined by a flavor of ripe apple.