NV Bereche et Fils Reflet d'Antan

The NV (2007) Reflet d’Antan is pure silk on the palate. Textural refinement and finesse are the hallmarks in this subtle, utterly breathtaking Champagne. Sweet floral notes meld into dried pears and peaches. Sweet floral notes are woven throughout, while aging in 600-liter barrels adds depth. An impeccable, beautifully articulated finish rounds things out in style. This release is based on the 2007 vintage (2/3rds), while the rest of the blend is derived from the house’s perpetual solera-style cuvee. Dosage was 5.5 grams per liter. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. ||Bereche was a clear standout among my visits earlier this year. The wines are loaded with distinctiveness and character across the board. Raphael Bereche is young, but his sheer enthusiasm and conviction are likely to take him far. The functional cellar reflects a minimalist aesthetic that focuses on non-interventionalist farming and winemaking. Partial vinification in barrel, ambient yeasts and blocked malolactic fermentations are choices that inform these gorgeous wines. Bereche vinifies his vineyards separately, which makes it possible to taste the various parcels from barrel or tank just after the harvest, a la Burgundy. Bereche is one of a small number of producers who prefer to age their top wines on the cork (instead of crown capsule), a time-consuming, painstaking process that is just one example of the total commitment to quality that is the rule here. Bereche believes aging on the cork results in wines that are more complex and integrated. Based on what I tasted, it’s hard to argue that point. Unfortunately, there is no Rose this year, as the estate is changing their approach with that wine. A new release is scheduled for 2013. Still, there are plenty of other gorgeous wines to choose from in this fabulous lineup. eRobertParker.com.November, 2012