2009 Boekenhoutskloof Semillon

92% Franschhoek Sémillon, 8% Franschhoek Sauvignon Blanc, the Sauvignon from the 2010 vintage for freshness. Whole-bunch pressed and fermentation started in egg-shaped tanks and finished in new French oak. Malo inhibited by cool cellar temperature. 13 months in barrel in a cold cellar without SO 2 addition or lees stirring. TA 5.4 g/l, pH 3.34, RS 2.1 g/l. One of winemaker/founder Marc Kent's favourite vintages, apparently. Pale gold. Smoky, stony, a touch herbal. A subtle and attractive flintiness. Cedar and quince. Tight, very fresh, with pure citrus Sémillon character, deliciously textured, starting to show the toasty hazelnut character of mature Sémillon. Not unlike examples from the Hunter Valley even though they start out much leaner than these wines. Terrific length.  (JH)

The 2009 Semillon is blended with 5% Sauvignon Blanc and is raised in new French oak for twelve months. It has a very expressive nose with almond, pineapple and banana skin. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity: notes of lemon curd, almond, vanilla and orange peel. It is very tight and focused with a taut finish. It deserves several years to show its true potential. Drink 2015-2023. It may still be difficult to pronounce but Boekenhoutskloof continues to affirm itself as one of South Africa's leading estates. Mark Kent is an astute helmsman, branching out to regions beyond his base in Franschhoek, for example, into Swartland for his Syrah. I still feel that he could rein in the new oak a little, but otherwise this is another set of superb South African wines. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, Alabama. Tel 205-949-6262.

First impression is French oak, then a creamy, honeyed citrus depth. Amazing concentration. Penetrating and long and rich but not fat. Embryonic. (JH)