2022 Yjar

This wine is now firmly on the global radar, and continues to be one of the highlights of my tasting calendar. Restrained, understated, mouthwatering, precise, vivid raspberry and redcurrant fruits, anis, black tea, lavender, poised, drawn out and just an utterly brilliant wine that is worth talking about. Telmo Rodriguez is winemaker of this 3.8ha plot set within his family Remelluri estate in the foothills of the Sierra de Toloño, Rioja Alavesa.

The 2022 Yjar was aged roughly 30 months in foudres and barrels of varying sizes. Comprising Tempranillo, Garnacha, Graciano and other varieties from an old bush-trained vineyard in Labastida, it offers a complex, nuanced nose of cherry, dried flowers, balsamic tones, delicate oak and subtle blackberry. On the palate, it achieves a rare equilibrium between intensity and finesse, finishing long with incense and violet. Despite the warmth of the vintage, the tannins remain fine, supported by élevage yet never dominated by it. Its chalky mouthfeel speaks clearly of the site. A Spanish grand vin that comfortably converses with top Bordeaux while remaining deeply Riojan in spirit.

(Rioja DOC; a blend of Tempranillo, Garnacha, Graciano, Granegro and Rojal sourced from an iconic vineyard in Labastida of 3.8 hectares at an altitude of 600-800 metres; 14.5% alcohol; 7889 bottles produced). Open and expressive, open-textured too with very gracious fine-grained tannins and plenty of layering. A little sweet spice; a hint of candlewax; a delicate wild floral and herbal note too; bright red and darker berry fruits, with almost a little pêche de vigne. Juicy, sapid, ample and with lovely engaging grippy tannins that really pixilate and delineate the mid-palate. Lovely. Beautifully composed and very elegant.