2020 Van Volxem Volz Riesling Grosses Gewachs
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Tasting notes
Dusty evocations of stone share aromatic billing with basil, thyme, pit-inflected white peach and Korean melon in the 2020 Riesling Wiltinger Volz Grosses Gewächs. The palate impression is coolingly herbal, infectiously juicy yet not overtly fruity, and sets up tongue-tingling impingements that turn mouth-shakingly vibrant on a finish of sensational grip and reach, showering the palate with herbs and mineral matter while delivering consummate refreshment. Niewodniczanski’s tasting room crew initially had trouble locating bottles of Volz to insert into my lineup. “Volz has its following,” was the winking comment. And no wonder! This portion of the Braunfels Einzellage has been singled out by Niewodniczanski since the beginning of his time at Van Volxem.
Critic scores
Average Score
Neal Martin (Vinous)
William Kelley (Robert Parker)
More reviews and scores
The 2020 Volz GG is again exciting in its seamless blending of stones, minerals and bright, citric fruit aromas. Very finessed and elegant on the palate, the 2020 reveals a delicate juiciness and charm. It is subtle but also rich, yet in a very fine and almost weightless way. It may not be as complex and dramatic as other grands crus of this ultra premium Saar domain, but it's a great drinking pleasure again. The finish is seriously long and reveals a fine tannin structure. Given the fact that wines from Wiltingen always start slowly, I assume this will be another great Riesling from VV in five years' time. Tasted in Wiesbaden in August 2021.
At first quite restrained but on prolonged inhalation one begins to appreciate the subtlety of a well-executed combination of herbal and mineral components. On the palate a rich herbal expression is first to the sensory post, but leaves enough room for a compact presentation of stone fruit and solid minerality. All elements are embedded in generous texture. Mouth-filling extract. (MS)