2021 OENO P Tria Ampelia

There's a bright burst of lemon juice and apricot, on a taut and linear palate. It's much less intense and full-on than the 2020 but more obviously fresh and juicy. There's still a good level of complexity, with a creamy and biscuity core that adds some weight and depth. Overall, it's the lightest of the early vintages but still highly enjoyable and very satisfying to drink.

This tasting demonstrates how important bottle age is to world-class Assyrtiko. The 2021 vintage is a lighter vintage compared to the classic 2022 vintage, and the 2021s are a bit shorter in comparison, Paris Sigalas tells me. However, the OENO Π 2021 Santorini Tria Ampelia absolutely delivers those characteristic mineral tones that give this wine such an elegant sense of lift and focus. There is citrus and stone fruit, but the bouquet is mostly animated by crushed stone and fleur de sel with a hint of lavender. "Up until the seven-year mark, Assyrtiko shows its mineral character without oxidation," Paris Sigalas explains. "Then, you have a period of about three to four years in which the mineral character comes with oxidation. After that, there is an interesting third chapter in which the wines show oxidative notes of honey, like a good natural wine. There are wines that last 15 years or more and continue to show their minerality; but those are rare, and oftentimes, it depends on the quality of the cork used."

From 60-year-old vines on Greece\'s windswept Santorini island comes this pale-straw-colored Assyrtiko with notes of ripe peaches, fresh tangerines and just-picked lemons on the nose. The medium body is a result of the 16 months the wine spends on its lees in the bottle, as are the irresistible lemon poundcake flavors on the palate and long finish.