2021 Barolo Vigneto Arborina

Coming from their home village of La Morra and expressive of the hallmark finesse of both the site and village, the 2021 Barolo Arborina is floral and pure with a refined perfume of fresh roses, wild raspberry, rocky earth, apricot, and fennel. It’s elegant all the way through, with a linear and focused feel, finely coiled tannins, even acidity, and a graceful and gently tapering finish. It has a haunting feel that’s exceptional in this vintage, and while it’s a pleasure to taste now, it should stand the test of time. Drink 2025-2055. Each of the wines for this report were tasted with Silvia Altare at the estate in La Morra. During this tasting, I was reminded of how, as trends come and go in the wine world, there is a timeless nature to the wines of those who excel within the framework of what they have historically accomplished. That is certainly the case at Altare, where they continue to produce wines in the traditional style of the estate in 100% new French oak, but also make wines dialing back the use of oak, which is more in vogue today. Additionally, in the hands of such skilled artisans, they achieve a refinement that will often come across as heavy-handed and out of balance when others try to imitate it. Each of the wines in this report is a unique and singular expression in its own right.

Again, relatively light on the nose. But with lots of sweet, almost blackberry(!) fruit on the palate. Polished texture and just a little chewy on the end. Less distinctively Piemontese than some. (JR)

The 2021 Barolo Arborina is one of the most elegant wines readers will find from this site, a vineyard where the tannins tend to be a bit piercing in their linearity. Instead, the 2021 is a wine of total harmony. Orange peel, cinnamon, kirsch, new leather and rose petal all build over time. This is such a gorgeous, complete Barolo.