2010 Wiston Estate Blanc de Noirs Sparkling

This 6.5-hectare vineyard in the South Downs of West Sussex was planted in 2006. The base wine of this hugely complex bubbly was kept on its lees for nine months, then kept on bottle lees for five years. Aromas are of cinnamon-infused lemon cream, with honey-almond praline and strawberry-field fragrance. The palate is rich, honeyed and creamy, yet freshly cut through with laser-sharp spines of acidity. Peaches, strawberries and cream, nutmeg and lemon syllabub flavours emerge, full, robust, concentrated and refreshing, framed around a finely-textured mousse.

100% Pinot Noir. Cream, dairy, honey and ripe apple with a touch of spice – this is full of flavour and substance with delicious maturity shoeing on the finish – mushroom, forest floor and cereal. Still going strong, and should age for many more years. (RH)

There is immense restraint and subtlety on the wine\'s nose. It takes a while for a distinct hint of smoke and rich creaminess to appear that then seems to expand into chalky richness and a salty, sea-breeze distance. The palate seems resolved, putting up a front of creamy, rich and rounded aromas with every tiny pinprick bubble, as if guarding the essential, eternal core of pristine freshness. Smoke and red apple dimensions play on a more distant loop, echoing from afar. This is gorgeous, profound, light and impressive, bordering on the metaphysical. Anne Krebiehl MW