2012 Vosne Romanée 1er Cru 'Les Malconsorts' 1,5 l Francois Lamarche

Bright crimson. Lifted red fruit with a touch of spice. Taut and dry, fine chalky tannins. A bit lean in the middle. (JH)

The 2012 Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Les Malconsorts comes from a demi-hectare of vines split over two plots. It has a subtle, understated bouquet that initially seems lighter than several of its peers, but it is very nuanced with subtle tertiary, almost granitic scents infusing the patina of brambly red berries. With a few more swirls, there are lovely wild heather notes emerging. The palate is medium-bodied but more supple and fuller than the Les Suchots - in fact, this has a Les Suchots like exuberance that is tailored towards the finish to suit a more upstanding, regal Malconsorts. There is a lovely black pepper note that lingers on the finish here. Very fine. Domaine Francois Lamarche is renowned for its monopole La Grande Rue that lies on the opposite side of the road from Romanee-Conti, although its history is far less illustrious, at least until recent times when it has been great to see this domaine’s wines radically improving. La Grande Rue was apparently a wedding gift to Henri Lamarche given in 1933 (better than a toaster) although the monopole was not even a grand cru until a rare promotion in 1992, albeit at a time when it was recognized that yields were way too high. Nicole Lamarche has been the winemaker here since 2007, whilst her sister Nathalie is in charge of marketing along with her aunt. The harvest commenced on 22 September and lasted for five or six days and all cuvees include around 30% whole cluster fruit and underwent long malo-lactic fermentation. The samples were taken directly from stainless steel tank and will be bottled in approximately three months’ time. The wines of this domaine have a distinct style. They have always been lighter than their peers, prioritizing finer tannins and more red fruit than black. Just taste through say, Bernard Gros’ and Lamarche’s wines one after the other and you see for yourself two dichotomous expressions of the same patch of earth. I have a penchant for Lamarche’s style of Pinot Noir and appreciated and praised recent vintages, although apropos these 2012s, I have to admit that I was seeking just a little more substance, a touch more conviction percolating through. I enjoyed them, but mentally I found myself wanting to “gee them up”, muster more vigor and flair. Importer: Domaines et Saveurs Collection (agent), Madame Jeanne-Marie Dechamps, Route de Dijon, 21200 Beaune; Tel: 3 80 225 816 and through Fields, Morris & Verdin (UK)

A deft application of wood sets off very spicy, cool and airy aromas of red and black pinot fruit along with notes of violet and lavender. There is good power to the luscious, concentrated and seductively textured medium weight plus flavors that deliver fine depth and length on the slightly acidulated finish. Note that my projected range assumes that the acid tang will round out. Tasted: Jan 15, 2014. Drink: 2022+