2018 Domaine du Pegau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée

Don't discount the 2018 Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée Réservée based on overall perceptions of the vintage; Laurence Feraud claims it reminds her of the 2014, which savvy consumers will know was one of the appellation's standouts that year. Violets and garrigue appear on the nose, joined by cherries and raspberries. In the mouth, it's medium to full-bodied, silky and tannic, but the tannins are ripe and not overly prominent. It may need another year or two to soften but should then drink well for a decade or more.

The 2018 Châteauneuf Du Pape Cuvée Réservée is a total charmer and already impossible to resist. Lots of red and black fruits, ground pepper, saddle leather, and spicy, floral notes define the nose, and it’s medium to full-bodied, with a lush, round mouthfeel, beautiful elegance, and outstanding length. It doesn’t have the concentration or depth of a truly great Pégau, but it’s one heck of a great drink today. Enjoy bottles over the coming 10-15 years or so. Laurence showed a clear preference for her 2020s during my visit, but I found many of the reds strangely reductive and hard to read.

Brilliant ruby. Smoky, mineral-tinged aromas of raspberry, cherry preserves, garrigue and exotic spices show excellent clarity and acquire a gamy nuance as the wine opens up. At once rich and energetic in character, offering well-concentrated red berry, bitter cherry and spicecake flavors and a sweetening touch of candied lavender. Shows fine definition and finishes gently, spicy and impressively long, with repeating florality and steadily building tannins.