1998 Delas Frères Côte-Rôtie La Landonne

From a vintage that's starting to open up across all of the Northern Rhone appellations, the 1998 Cote Rotie la Landonne is upfront and ready to go, with terrific smoky dark fruits, Asian spices, dried pepper, olive and dried flower-like notes all soaring from the glass. Medium to full-bodied, seamless, elegant and layered, yet with terrific mid-palate depth, this beauty can be enjoyed anytime over the coming 15+ years.

1997 key change chez Delas when they hired Jacques Grange as their new oenologist. 500 cases produced (they have one ha in La Landonne). 100% new oak for 14-16 months. Deep ruby with a touch of mahogany at the core. More developed on the nose than the Ogier 1998. Sweet, ripe, almost overripe cherry. Then a definite note of thyme. Really quite herbal on the finish. Chalky grip, dry but fresh and deep finish. It grew on me more as it opened up and showed more complexity but generous and ripe rather than fine. (JH)

Deep, youthful crimson. Splits the difference between ancient and modern styles to a rather toothsome effect. This is meaty Côte Rôtie. Perhaps not the truest to the AC tradition, but quite true to Landonne. Glossy, appetising, well-balanced and apparently appealing both now and in the future. [tasted may 04, not blind] (JR)