2021 Alban Foresythe The Mason

Cassis, blue fruits, candied violets, and peppery, meaty, bouquet garni-like notes all shine from the 2021 The Mason, another rich, full-bodied Mourvèdre from this team. Based on 75% Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah, and 10% Grenache, it has plenty of density, a fresher, focused mouthfeel, ripe tannins, and a great finish. Give bottles 2-4 years if you can, and it will keep for at least two decades. Drink 2027-2041. Founded by John Alban in the mid-1980s, Alban Vineyards was the first estate in California dedicated exclusively to Rhône varieties and remains one of the world’s great wine estates. Based at the far end of the Edna Valley, it stands alone in the region, producing wines of a quality unmatched for miles in any direction. While vintages here sometimes echo the broader Central Coast, they just as often chart their own course, resulting in singular wines with a character all their own. A defining feature of the cellar is a long four-year élevage, which lends the wines their depth, exotic richness, and extraordinary ability to age. The portfolio centers on Syrah, Grenache, Viognier, and Roussanne, and Alban continues to be the reference point for Rhône varieties in California. Looking at the vintages reviewed here, you have two absolutely brilliant yet dramatically different sets of wines. The 2020s come from a scorching hot year and are classic Alban, showing massive richness and opulence. While Paso Robles and the North Coast were affected by smoke in 2020, the Edna Valley escaped unscathed, and these wines can be purchased with confidence. In contrast, the 2021s are more inward, concentrated, and built around good acidity and ripe tannins. Coming from a cooler, longer growing season with welcome rainfall (by California standards), they shine for their purity, balance, and vibrancy while still bringing incredible concentration. These are built for the cellar and will handsomely reward patience. They are unquestionably world-class wines not to be missed.