2003 Solari Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Larkmead Vineyard
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Tasting notes
Good dark red. Aromas of cherry, herbs and rose petal suggest a wide range of ripeness. Nicely concentrated and savory but slightly medicinal and clenched, with the wine's acidity coming across as a bit sour and disjointed. A wine of modest texture and depth, finishing with a faint bitter edge. There were still some older vines here in 2003 but they were diseased "and not necessarily better," according to Petroski, and former winemaker Andy Smith noted that the vines in 2003 were "out of balance all year following spring frost." This wine and the 2003 LMV Salon are carrying a full seven grams per liter of acidity, mostly likely due to a combination of some underripe fruit and some acidification. Two thousand three was an awkward growing season here, noted Petroski, "and the wines are awkward in the glass today." He added: "The Solari doesn't taste like Larkmead." (15.5% alcohol)
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Average Score
Robert Parker
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
The 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Solari Reserve is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon aged 19 months in three-fourths new French oak from the well-known cooper of Sylvain. Named after the Solari family that purchased Larkmead in 1948, this cuvee is essentially an homage to their pioneer and visionary spirits. A dense ruby/purple color is followed by notes of cassis, flowers, and a subtle touch of vanillin. The fruit dominates the aromatics, and the purity is striking (a characteristic of all these wines) in this full-bodied, multidimensional effort. It is a terrific example of what Larkmead has been doing so impressively over the last decade. The alcohol is 14.7% with a finished pH of 3.86, which puts it in line with such great Bordeaux vintages as 2009. This 2003 is accessible now, but it has 25-30 years of cellaring potential. This exquisite, historic (the vineyard was well-known in the 1800s) source for great Cabernet Sauvignon situated on the valley floor, just north of St. Helena, remains one of my favorite wineries of the region. Under the guidance of the winemaking consultant, Scotsman, Andy Smith, they continue to go from strength to strength. Tel. (707) 942-0167; Fax (707) 942-6934
Good bright ruby-red. Very sexy aromas of blackberry liqueur, licorice, iron, graphite and gingerbread. Fat, sweet and liqueur-like, with creamy flavors of black raspberry, game and mocha. With extended aeration, this turned into a silky and utterly captivating fruit bomb with plenty of verve but a complete absence of rough edges. This style of wine in California so often falls down on the finish due to clumsy oak, excessive tannins or pronounced chocolatey torrefaction, but this beauty is all about creamy, thoroughly ripe dark fruits.
(the two blocks used to make this wine were co-fermented for the first time in 2003; 14.9% alcohol with a pH of 3.9) Good medium ruby. Varietally expressive aromas of creme de cassis, plum, smoke and tobacco. Dense, creamy and sweet, conveying an impression of small berries. The deep berry character is complicated by notes of smoke, truffle and earth. Comes across as more powerful and more gripping than the 2002, with big but ripe tannins. Still, I'd consume this wine over the medium term-say, within the next eight to ten years.