Brunello di Montalcino Millecento Riserva

The 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Millecento shows a level of extreme elegance and harmony that I did not find in the 2008 vintage of this same wine. The fact that 2010 is a better vintage is an obvious asset, but I believe that the folks at Castiglion del Bosco have generally switched to a more streamlined wine style across their entire portfolio. This is a very welcome change. The bouquet opens slowly to reveal wild berry, balsam herb and pressed flowers. The wine is more vertical in approach than it is horizontal. In other words, the aromas lift gracefully with balanced intensity and buoyancy. I also suspect that this wine will promise a much longer aging potential compared to past incarnations.

Tasted blind. Mid ruby with orange rim. Not enormously expressive on the nose and already developing. Elegant palate with gentle sweet-sour fruit and hints of mulch, but maturing too quickly and lacking the concentration to be a real Riserva. (WS)