1980 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
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Tasting notes
The 1980 Clos de la Roche Cuvée Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru, this time not consumed with pizza after completing the 10km race during Hospices de Beaune, has a very complex bouquet, though markedly different from the 1985. This is less sensual and more marine-influenced in style. Kelp/Japanese nori hints filter through the darker fruit. There's lovely freshness and focus. The palate is beautifully balanced with fine tannins, fresh and supple, pure black cherry and subtle blueberry fruit married with a perfect line of acidity. There is a little more structure and grip than the 1985, with a longer aftertaste. More minty aromas emerge with time in the glass, lending yet another layer of complexity. Jean-Marie Ponsot oversaw a legendary Clos de la Roche that I have now been fortunate to drink twice within 12 months. Magnificent. Tasted at Ponsot's 150th anniversary vertical at the Domaine.
Critic scores
Average Score
Neal Martin
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
More reviews and scores
I feel churlish stopping one point short of a three-digit score for the magical 1980 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru Cuvée Vieilles Vignes, which a wine of this quality would certainly merit in any other wine region; but Burgundy is all about nuance and shading, and one has to try to retain rigor and coherence, even in the face of a profoundly emotive bottle such as this. Wafting from the glass with a deep and carnal bouquet of wild berries, grilled meats, exotic spices, vine smoke and sweet forest floor, it's full-bodied, rich and layered, with huge concentration, deep reserves of sweet, powdery tannin and a long, resonant finish. If anyone's ever wondering what to bring to dinner, I'd settle for this.
Ponsot’s 1980 Clos de la Roche was big, chunky and somewhat rustic, yet immensely rewarding.
The 1980 Clos de le Roche revealed a similarly rustic style in its black olives, dark cherries and spices. A big, powerful wine, it probably needed more air to show at its best as it was constantly changing in the glass and offered immense pleasure. I could sense more than a little regret at the table among those who finished their pours quickly!
About the producer
Domaine Ponsot is one of the most well-known estates in the Côte de Nuits, famed for owning three of the original four hectares of the Clos de la Roche Grand Cru. The legendary domaine also produces another nine Grand Cru cuvées.