1985 Calera Pinot Noir Jensen Vineyard

Fermented with whole clusters, ambient yeasts and no temperature control. Aged for 18 months in 30% new French oak. Labelled as table wine and under 14% alcohol, so no alcohol level was required to be stated on the label. Medium ruby with orange at the rim. Smells of smoked meat, olive brine and red miso with a hint of chopped green herbs and a graceful top note of exotic incense and spices. Saline flavours of green herbs, red-apple skin and dried raspberries are accompanied by a wonderful, stony freshness, all wrapped in thick fleecy tannins that coat the mouth. Notes of mixed cooking herbs linger in the finish. In remarkable shape. (AY)

Mature, complex and intricate, showing tealike flavors with cranberries, tart cherries, cinnamon and balsam. Still nicely structured and appetizing. Balanced, lively, vibrant and fresh. Amazing how well this fascinating wine from a singular estate vineyard has aged. Drink now.

The 1985 Pinot Noir Jensen Vineyard is another terrific wine from the mid-1980s. Although not as complex or nuanced as the 1986 or the 1987, the 1985 still has a lot going on. Sweet tobacco, mint, dried cherries and anise are some of the many notes that open up on the finish. All things considered, the 1985 has held up well.