1986 Domaine Raveneau Chablis Montee de Tonnerre 1er Cru

Pink-tinged gold. Much fresher on the nose than the 1987, offering compelling aromas of red berries, poached pear, ginger, hazelnut and honey complicated by musky minerality and a hint of coffee that's more exotic than oxidative. Plush, ripe and utterly suave; totally mature but still maintaining its balance. This wine has the creamy texture of the 1990 but much better Chablis backbone. While its richness almost reads as sweetness, the finish is wonderfully vibrant, salty and long, thanks to brisk acidity and a late burst of minerality. Fascinating and full of life.