2023 Oberhauser Brucke Grosses Gewachs (Auction)
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Tasting notes
From under the Nahe bridge between Oberhausen and Niederhausen, the gold-capsuled 2023 Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling trocken GG is deep, clear, bright and intense yet also subtle on the intense and flinty nose that is reminiscent of ripe and elegant Riesling berries as well as herbs and asparagus, which give the Brücke a coolish/vegetal rather than stony character. Round, refined and very elegant on the palate, with buttermilk nuances, this is a full-bodied, finely juicy and savory Riesling with an intense and surprisingly saline finish (yet no alcohol impressions). This is a very charming and elegant Riesling for those who normally fear the variety due to its racy acidity. Here, the body is supple and so are its bones. The Brücke has textural rather than structural qualities. 12.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted in October 2024. This is to be auctioned in November.
Critic scores
Average Score
Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate
Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous
More reviews and scores
Very powerful and compact on the sleek and extremely focused palate, this has an almost supernatural cool, racy energy. I love the way the juicy stone fruit exactly matches the herbal intensity. Very cool and dark finish that doesn’t want to stop. Great aging potential. Extremely limited production.
The 2023 Riesling Oberhäuser Brücke Grosses Gewächs is immediately present and ready to disarm with exuberant aromas: crunchy green apple and lemon blossom spell purity and poise from the off. The palate is lithe and slender, bursting with lemony freshness and joyful with citric vim and verve. This puts on a bright show of its smiling, youthful face—all jazz hands and bravado. Underneath, however, is a sleek line of precision, cool, stony, serious, eternal and straight, a fusion of rock and citrus that will trace its linearity for years to come. This is a wine not of heft, but of endurance and elegance. Available at auction: 240 bottles, 12 magnums. (Bone-dry)