2023 Paul Lato Pinot Noir Lancelot Pisoni Vineyard
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Compared to its more opulent Chardonnay counterpart, the 2023 Pinot Noir Lancelot Pisoni Vineyard remains remarkably light on its feet, while still displaying the potent nature of the Santa Lucia Highlands. It includes the only addition of whole clusters in the Paul Lato lineup, opening with a powerful bouquet of black fruit cordial, black licorice and dried herbs. On the palate, it combines a silky, precisely rendered richness with a deft, concentrated power that carries through the ripe finish, lingering with warming spice notes and a touch of chalky tannin.
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Jeb Dunnuck
Matthew Luczy, Wine Advocate
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From granitic soils on the southern end of the Santa Lucia Highlands, the 2023 Pinot Noir Lancelot Pisoni Vineyard was aged 18 months in 50% new French oak. Deep ruby-hued and semi-opaque, it offers darker berries, crushed stone, graphite, and sappy floral nuances. Medium to full-bodied, it has a focused, structured mouthfeel, ripe tannins, and a great finish. This 2023 will benefit from a year or two of bottle age and cruise over the following decade. Drink 2027-2037. Paul Lato continues to produce one of the most impressive lineups I taste each year, with wines coming from top vineyards across the Central Coast and beyond. The Polish immigrant (this is a great American success story) who started as a cellar hand in Santa Maria has built a program that now includes five Chardonnays and seven Pinot Noirs in this lineup alone. The Chardonnays range from Rincon in Arroyo Grande to Sierra Madre in Santa Maria to Pisoni in Santa Lucia Highlands and Hyde in Carneros, with the Kokoro being a selection across sites. The Pinot Noir program is equally extensive, pulling from Gold Coast and Solomon Hills in Santa Maria, Zotovich and Drum Canyon in Sta. Rita Hills, Pisoni in Santa Lucia Highlands, and Hyde in Carneros. All wines see extended aging of 16 to 19 months, with new oak ranging from 25% to 70% depending on the cuvée. I thought the Stand By Me from Drum Canyon was the clear standout in the Pinot lineup this year, while the Pisoni Chardonnay shows remarkable power and concentration. Having said that, there are no dogs in the lineup, and these are all brilliant wines. These wines consistently show a balance between California richness and Old World restraint, with the oak perfectly integrated despite the relatively high percentages used. What continues to impress me is the consistency across such a large lineup – there's not a weak wine in the bunch and each shows distinct site character despite the uniform winemaking approach.
The 2023 Pinot Noir Pisoni Vineyard Lancelot is very light and perfumed, which is curious for this site that typically yields powerful, muscular wines. Rose petal and orange peel notes lift a core of supple berry fruit in a layered, elegant wine that's decidedly on the quiet side.