2023 Weingut Keller Abts E® Riesling Großes Gewächs

This is mineral magic! Unbelievably concentrated, but also unbelievably elegant and refined on the medium-bodied palate, this defies easy description. As you swirl the glass the various aromatic dimensions of the wine—stone fruit, citrus, fresh herbs and chalk dust—reveal themselves one after another. Incredibly long, pure and stony at the mind-blowing finish. Drink from release.

The 2023 Riesling Westhofener Brunnenhäuschen Abtserde Grosses Gewächs is from a site between Kirchspiel and Morstein with the high active limestone. The shy nose teases with immensely pure but tender lemon peel notes, still interspersed with reduction. More air adds lemon balm. The palate is a picture of slenderness, brightness, freshness and limestone coolness. Underneath that is salt, stone and immense juiciness. Zestiness reigns, bringing length, depth and extra dimensions of citrus radiance. This is luminous and pure. (Bone-dry)

Vines 22–45 years old. Tank sample. The tonal scale starts to rise here to a higher note than in Morstein but also showing more obvious smoky/mineral reduction. Ripe, pure and lightly spicy citrus, becoming ever more fragrant with air. A perfect contrast between crisp acidity and a rounded, deep fullness in the mouth, very different from the Rieslings grown on slate-dominated sites. Immense power, depth and length and an icy-cool finish cutting through all that depth. (JH)