2016 Niersteiner Hipping Riesling Kabinett
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Tasting notes
So intense it is not very expressive, as if it cannot get out of the glass. Smoky wild-ferment herbal notes as well as a lovely smoky grapefruit. On the palate, spicy lemon and apricot fruit. Very direct and still very charming. Complex, almost eye-watering in its freshness but perfectly balanced and endlessly long. Almost chewy in the amount of extract giving such depth on the palate. (JH)
Critic scores
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
Scents and flavors of apple, lime, grapefruit and white peach are accented by seed and pit piquancy, crushed stone and sea breeze. While there is less effusive juiciness here than in the corresponding Pettenthal, the polished palate exhibits a remarkable impression of density allied to alcoholic levity, and the tart-edged finish grips with mouth-shaking intensity, leaving the tongue aquiver and the salivary glands pumping for dear life. Destined for auction, this amazingly concentrated, low-pH bottling is likely to be long-lived even by the standards of its genre.
About the producer
Based in the Rheinhessen, Keller is one of the finest Riesling producers in the world, and has set the benchmark for German Pinot Noir.