2009 Walter Hansel Pinot Noir Cahill Lane Vineyard

The 2009 Pinot Noir Cahill Lane wafts from the glass with freshly cut flowers, rose petals, sweet red cherries and licorice. The Cahill Lane has terrific aromatic lift and intensity, which keeps the wine light on its feet. There is more than enough freshness and energy for the wine to drink well for a number of years. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. This is an excellent set of wines from Steven Hansel. The Chardonnays are fermented and aged in barrels for a total of 10 months with lees stirring once a week for the first 8 weeks. Hansel favors Francois Freres and Seguin Moreau barrels, typically 50% new for the Chardonnays. The Pinots are made with fully destemmed fruit and aged in Seguin Moreau barrels, 70% new. Like many growers, Hansel was affected by late season rains in 2010. The estate was very aggressive with leaf pulling, which then created challenges, especially for the Chardonnays, when the heat spikes arrived. The 2010s have lower alcohol and higher acidities than the 2009s, but they also at times have a bit of heaviness from the very low yields of the year. The Pinots seem less affected by the weather in 2010. Vintage 2009 was much more regular, and that comes through in the consistency of both the Chardonnays and the Pinots. Tel. (707) 525-3614; www.walterhanselwinery.com

Vivid ruby. Smoky cherry, blackberry, spicecake and floral scents are complicated by a subtle herbal quality. Pliant red and dark berry flavors show excellent depth and seductive sweetness, picking up cola and violet nuances with air. Leaves bitter cherry and blackberry liqueur notes behind, along with a hint of candied flowers. This has the structure and focus to age.