2023 Paul Lato Chardonnay East of Eden Pisoni Vineyard
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Tasting notes
The bouquet of the 2023 Chardonnay East of Eden Pisoni Vineyard is marked by lees-derived notions of oatmeal, croissant and pastry cream subtly lifted by floral accents and a touch of reduction. On the palate, it exudes the somewhat lumbering, oily quality I often find in fruit from Santa Lucia Highlands, further bolstered by a lush core of sweet, concentrated fruits. A subtle wet-slate-like minerality gently pushes the finish, which, relative to the other Chardonnay offerings in the roster, lacks a bit of verve and complexity at this stage.
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Jeb Dunnuck
Matthew Luczy, Wine Advocate
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Sourced from Pisoni Vineyard and brought up 16 months in 60% new French oak, the 2023 Chardonnay East Of Eden Pisoni Vineyard is light to medium gold-hued and offers exotic stone fruits, honeyed melon, spice, and some minty, herbal notes. Medium to full-bodied, it has a pure, layered crystalline mouthfeel, integrated acidity, and a fabulous finish. It's a rich, powerful, serious Chardonnay that will keep for 8-10 years. Drink 2025-2035. Paul Lato continues to produce one of the most impressive lineups I taste each year, with wines coming from top vineyards across the Central Coast and beyond. The Polish immigrant (this is a great American success story) who started as a cellar hand in Santa Maria has built a program that now includes five Chardonnays and seven Pinot Noirs in this lineup alone. The Chardonnays range from Rincon in Arroyo Grande to Sierra Madre in Santa Maria to Pisoni in Santa Lucia Highlands and Hyde in Carneros, with the Kokoro being a selection across sites. The Pinot Noir program is equally extensive, pulling from Gold Coast and Solomon Hills in Santa Maria, Zotovich and Drum Canyon in Sta. Rita Hills, Pisoni in Santa Lucia Highlands, and Hyde in Carneros. All wines see extended aging of 16 to 19 months, with new oak ranging from 25% to 70% depending on the cuvée. I thought the Stand By Me from Drum Canyon was the clear standout in the Pinot lineup this year, while the Pisoni Chardonnay shows remarkable power and concentration. Having said that, there are no dogs in the lineup, and these are all brilliant wines. These wines consistently show a balance between California richness and Old World restraint, with the oak perfectly integrated despite the relatively high percentages used. What continues to impress me is the consistency across such a large lineup – there's not a weak wine in the bunch and each shows distinct site character despite the uniform winemaking approach.
The 2023 Chardonnay Pisoni Vineyard East of Eden is notably fresh for a Chardonnay from the Santa Lucia Highlands, where Chardonnay can tend to lack energy. A wine of deep mineral intensity and phenolic grip, the 2023 speaks firmly, with powerful inner tension and nerve lends a ton of textural intrigue. Lemony, chalky lift enlivens the finish. Another excellent 2023 white from Paul Lato.