2006 Domaine Sylvie Esmonin Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru

The Esmonin 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.-Jacques is so finely tannic that it manages to convey a soothing richness of black fruits, roasted game, malt, chocolate, and honey. An aura of wood smoke and black tea and peat darkly shrouds the performance, along with narcissus-like musky florality. There is an uncanny sense of transparency here to a complex, striking, vibratory interplay of flavors, and at the same time, the finish clings like a sap. Lock this away for 3-4 years and then plan on another 6-8 of fascination. Sylvie Esmonin organized a rigorous triage of her crop in early September. Even then, she put off harvesting until almost the end of that month and had to contend with rigorous table-sorting to insure healthy fruit. Potential alcohol levels hovered around 13%, and Esmonin says she vinified to emphasize aroma and finesse, which included employing a significant portion of vendange entier. Her grandfather, Esmonin noted, spoke about the cleansing and purgative aspects of incorporating the stems precisely in a difficult vintage, and she says her own first experiment in this regard was with a Volnay in 2000, based on a spontaneous decision made in the vineyard and in recollection of her grandfather's admonition. The result, she maintains, was healthier color and fruit flavors than she would otherwise have obtained. Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191