2023 Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett 02 19
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Tasting notes
AP number 02 24. Intense limy citrus with a pretty floral edge and the merest hint of stony-smokiness. Gloriously intense and pure, essence of lemon and perfectly balanced. Mouth-watering purity. GV (JH)
Critic scores
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Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
James Suckling
More reviews and scores
The combination of concentrated yet delicate stone and citrus fruit aromas (think pomelo) with mouthwatering acidity makes this a brilliant riesling Kabinett. As it aerates, this light-bodied, off-dry riesling develops a wealth of herbal nuances that range from dill to sage. Super-clean finish. Drink or hold.
The 2023 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett opens with substantial depth and a brilliant bouquet of wet slate. The fruit is intense but not dominating, thanks to the flintiness and savoriness of the Himmelreich terroir. On the palate, this is a mouth-filling, dense and complex Kabinett with ripe, elegant and juicy fruit intertwined with very fine phenols and an ethereal slate thread that gives this Kabinett an enormous length and animation. This will be a superb gastronomic wine after a decade of bottle age, although the 2023 already drinks beautifully today. 7.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in August 2024 from AP 2 24.
The 2023 Riesling Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett teases with a touch of scented white summer blossom and a stony crackle of wet slate bathed in ripe, juicy clementine. The palate is smooth and full, shining with pure, rounded, sweet clementine juiciness while standing on light, slender feet. A caress, a cloud of scent, a lovely and tender evocation of purest fruit. Such length, purity and exquisite balance are disarming. (Sweet)