2015 Ayler Kupp Auslese Lange Goldkapsel Auktion

(375 ml.) This “long gold capsule” Auslese destined for auction and not assigned one of Lauer’s usual “cask #” nicknames, is the product of pickings all across the Kupp and represents 90% shriveled, botrytis-infected berries. “It didn’t look very pretty,” remarks Lauer - but look what resulted! A penetratingly prickly, ominously smoky nose suggests dried and distilled apricot laced with almond extract and zesty fresh lemon for an almost Esszencia-like impression. The palate offers an uncanny alliance of textural creaminess and richness of apricot essence and quince jelly with invigorating lemony brightness, and a startling surge of salinity in the soaring finish sets the salivary glands palpitating. The only thing standing between this wine and a significantly higher point score is its sheer embryonic concentration. (Unfortunately, I didn’t get chance to taste the corresponding “regular” Auslese, “Fass 10.”)