2016 Schlossbockelheimer Felsenberg Grosses Gewachs

From the earliest of the grand crus, the Schlossböckelheimer, 2016 Nahe Riesling Felsenberg "GG" opens with a fascinating, fine and complex bouquet with spicy/vegetal, herbal and stony aromas, whereas the fruit is subtle, very clear and precise. On the palate, this is a round and juicy Felsenberg that reveals intense fruit, with ripe but fine acidity and a long, well-structured and powerful finish. This is a warmer type of Riesling, coming from a cru that Tim harvests with respect to the berry skins, which should still have buoyancy since the grapes of the Felsenberg tend to become overripe in a very short time, even within a day. Tasted December 2017.

A site-typical aromatic amalgam of struck flint, huckleberry and crushed stone mingles with hops, papaya and green mango, anticipating the piquant, smoky, slightly austere impression on a silken palate. Wisteria perfume adds allure that persists in the mouth, while white peach wells up to convey unexpectedly generous finishing fruitiness. To an even greater extent than with this year’s Vulkangestein blend (around half of which originates in Felsenberg), there is a remarkably persistent and profoundly mouthwatering evocation of toasted shrimp shells and oyster liquor with all of the mineral and animal diversity and intrigue those convey, as well as striking clarity and an exhilarating sense of lift.

Light as a feather (in a good way) with real tension on the nose. Some suggestion of a brassica. Really very distinctive and enjoyable – provided you don’t have a fear of green vegetables. Quite explosively pungent. Sleek and very fresh. Real pace on this wine! (JR)