2008 Barolo Le Albe

The 2008 Barolo Albe is flat-out delicious. The Albe has often been a big step below the flagship Barolo Bricco delle Viole, but not in 2008. Although softer and rounder than that wine, there is plenty of vintage character in this vibrant, beautifully articulated Barolo. Sweet dark cherries, incense, licorice and tobacco are all wrapped around a pliant finish. The 2008 is accessible even today, and is a great – and I mean great – introductory Barolo for the year. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2020. Aldo and Milena Vajra are among the quietest and most introspective of Piedmont’s top echelon growers. It is the wines that do the talking here, and they do that ever so eloquently. The estate’s continued focus on excellence throughout their entire range comes through in spades in these new releases. One of the most interesting wines I tasted during my most recent visit might never be released, but it speaks to the high level of quality that is synonymous with the Vajra name. Some years ago, the Vajras purchased a plot in the Ravera vineyard planted with Nebbiolo. The vineyards are now about 15 years old, but the Vajras have never released a Barolo from this site because they don’t think the wine is important enough for their label. I tasted the 2008 from tank and can only say most producers would kill to have a wine of this level in their cellar. But at Vajra, it remains a work in progress. I hope the Vajras will decide to bottle this Barolo one day, as it seems a crime to deprive the world of this terrific Barolo. For those who are wondering, the Ravera is closer to the Barolo Bricco delle Viole than the Barolo Albe stylistically. Importers: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808; Rinascimento Wine Company, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (310) 270-3747

Bottled in July. Herbal and subdued. Lovely elegant palate boosted by big tannin, which need a little mellowing out. (WS)