2003 Clos Vougeot

Super-spicy blackberries and black cherries make up the aromatic profile of the 2003 Clos Vougeot. While Jadot’s parcel in this grand cru is sometimes derided for its location (reaching down to the wall by the N74), in 2002 and 2003 – two vintages where water-retaining soils were advantageous – the results have been glorious. Its dense, pure personality is medium to full-bodied, chewy-textured, crammed with dark cherries, and immensely concentrated. This awesomely deep, muscular, and persistent wine is masculine and displays exceptional ripeness. Projected maturity: 2009-2020. Note: Three wines that were tasted as barrel samples in November, 2004 were re-tasted from bottle in June, 2005. The 2003 Puligny-Montrachet (rated 87 points) is medium-bodied, expressive and plush, yet focused; the 2003 Pernand-Vergelesses Croix de Pierre (88) sports a wonderful nose of flowers and red cherries as well as a deep medium-bodied character filled with stony dark fruits; and the outstanding 2003 Pommard Rugiens (92) is medium to full-bodied, dense, structured, intense, and crammed with dark fruits. Importer: Kobrand, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 490-9300

Knockout nose of black cherry, minerals, leather and soil. Very juicy and intensely flavored, with solid underlying structure. Dark cherry and wild berry flavors show adequate energy despite the wine's very low acidity. Distinctly feminine Clos Vougeot, and a bit more open than usual for this wine at this stage of its development. Finishes surprisingly firm, with notes of bitter chocolate and licorice. Jadot will bottle 26 barrels of this juice, compared to a normal 43.

Lightish crimson. Lively, relatively tense for a 2003 red burgundy, almost as though it has been acidified. A bit mean and unyielding at present. Pretty sulky. Some core of bitter cherry fruit. (JR)