2017 Chassagne Montrachet Grandes Ruchottes

Bright, light yellow. High-pitched scents of spices and menthol. At once powerful and elegant, with its sappy citrus flavors currently playing second fiddle to terroir -driven crushed-rock minerality. Wonderfully dense and broad, yet the overall impression is one of weightlessness, no doubt owing in part to the relatively low potential alcohol here (12.5%, chaptalized to about 13.3%). This superb expression of soil finishes with outstanding rising length.