2018 Magill Estate Shiraz

A very intense and ripe expression of dark-cherry, plum and raspberry aromas here with some chocolate-powder and cedar-oak inflections, all nicely matched to the rich, sumptuous fruit. The palate has a very plush, smooth-honed and dense feel with fine layers of tannins that gather weight and power on the finish. Deceptively long with a wrap of dark, toasted spice around rich blackberries. Delicious now, but best from 2026.

The only single-estate wine in the lineup, the 2018 Magill Estate Shiraz is pieced together from the five hectares at Penfolds HQ in the Adelaide suburbs. Boysenberry and mulberry notes support vanilla and cedar accents, and there's a touch of roasted meat as well on the nose, while the full-bodied palate comes across as a bit coarse and open-knit, the tannins lacking that little extra bit of refinement. It's a fine effort but nowhere near the best wine in the Penfolds stable.

The single-vineyard Magill Estate Shiraz is intrinsically linked to Penfolds' beginnings. Sourced from the Magill vineyard on the edge of Adelaide’s eastern suburbs (just 8 km from the city centre), fruit is crushed, fermented and matured on-site at the original winery, established in 1844. First produced in 1983. Hand-picked, vinified in open fermenters and then basket pressed to complete fermentation in barrel. TA 6.9 g/l, pH 3.61. Aged for 17 months in French (24% new) and American (18% new) oak hogsheads. Penfolds aren't really that keen on spelling out appellations clearly on their labels, it seems. I had to consult our database to establish the GI here. Dark, concentrated purple colour. Lifted and lively - intriguing rather than flashy. Polished tannins and an undertow of sweet tarriness. Contained rather than constructed. Dry finish for the moment but very promising. Hint of mint and long. Some but not too much sweetness. (JR)