1995 Domaine d'Auvenay Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru

Though I was privileged to sample half a dozen mature vintages at a memorable vertical in Hong Kong, that tasting did not include the 1995 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru. Though it’s now eye-wateringly expensive, if you can find a bottle, that does not place it above criticism. The nose is very ripe with what feels like a touch of botrytis skimming away the detail that you find with the 1996. It develops a slight smoky tincture with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with a creamy texture, to the extent that I would mistake it for a Corton-Charlemagne in a blind tasting. The final three words jotted down in my tasting booklet are a pithy "I've," "had" and "better."