1997 Del Dotto Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley

(13.5% alcohol): Good dark red. A sexy note of claret funk complicates aromas of blackcurrant, cherry, coffee, mocha, brown spices and flowers. Silky on entry, then firm acidity gives lift and shape to the wine's pure dark berry and spice flavors, with a floral element contributing even more verve. With its harmonious spine of acidity and firm dusting of tannins, this wine seems to be at the front end of its peak drinking plane. Finishes juicy and long. Nothing heavy or overdone about this. I was not yet tasting the Del Dotto wines in the late '90s, so this impeccably made Cabernet was a revelation to me.