2010 Maison Joseph Drouhin Marquis de Laguiche Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot Blanc 1er Cru

Tasted blind at Farr Vintners Kumeu/White Burgundy tasting. The nose on the 2010 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot from Marquis de Laguiche does not possess the complexity of the other whites in this blind flight. It is nicely delineated with terse granitic and lemon peel scents, though it does not have the nuance. The palate is balanced with smoke walnut and spice on the entry, but it is dogged by a flatness that it cannot shake off right to the finish. Perhaps this is going through a dumbed-down phase?

Pale bright yellow. Ripe pear, white flowers and a note of coconut on the fragrant nose. Then dense and vibrant in the mouth, showing superb energy and definition to its pear, spice and white pepper flavors. Finishes with enticing saline minerality and an impressively tactile quality. A superb vintage for this bottling, but in need of some cellaring. This was bottled in August of 2011.

The terrific 2010 Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot Marquis de Laguiche is beautifully balanced from start to finish. It comes across as more reserved than the Folatières, with enough acidity and overall structure to frame the fruit. As always, this is a big, broad-shouldered white that needs time in bottle to settle down. Veins of brisk, saline minerality frame the finish. This is all finesse and class. Incidentally, a recent bottle of the 2002 was fabulous.