2009 Casa Piena Cabernet Sauvignon

(from a cool Yountville vineyard planted in 2003, near Kapcsandy): Saturated, bright ruby-red. Briary red fruits, licorice, mocha and chocolate on the nose, complicated by sexy soil tones. Very ripe and sweet but with good mineral verve to the blue fruit flavors. The long finish displays ripe tannins and noteworthy clarity of dark berry flavor. This property is owned by Gail and Carmen Policy, and Thomas Brown makes the wine.

Casa Piena is owned by the exuberant Carmen Policy and his wife Gail. Policy is best known for his work in the San Francisco 49ers front office during the golden era in which the team won four Super Bowls. Success breeds success, as the saying goes. These are two hugely polished, elegant wines from the Policy family and winemaker Thomas Rivers Brown. The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon wraps around the palate with juicy dark berries, flowers, mint and licorice. This is a soft, supple 2009 graced with lovely textural depth and roundness, all in a very beautiful, polished, medium-bodied style. The 2009 spent 18 months in French oak barrels, 80% new.