2023 Centgrafenberg Spatburgunder Grosses Gewachs
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Tasting notes
The 2023 Spätburgunder Centgrafenberg GG is deep, intense and rather coolish on the aromatic, concentrated nose that reveals toasty notes of unthawing frozen cherries, dark berries and hints of tar or graphite. Silky, very refined yet intense and even rich on the palate, this is a powerful, seamlessly textured Pinot that is a little bit creamy and has young but ripe and very fine tannins that intermingle with fine salinity. The finish is still tight and a little biting, but the wine is powerful and intense enough for positive development over the years. After the first tasting in August, this assessment is therefore still rather cautious. 13% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted in December 2025.
Critic scores
Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
AP number 18 25. Expensive! Lots of pleasure in its satiny texture but the fruit is slightly overwhelmed by the oak at the moment. (JR)
This beautiful pinot noir is extraordinarily delicate on the medium-bodied palate. Then, when you think you have solved the mystery, this wine expands in the incredibly long, focused and refined finish. Drinkable now, but best from 2027.
80% whole cluster. This doesn't pour, it glides. A skater over ice, all lithe power and silent momentum. Aromas of blackberry and the balsamic lift of juniper and pine. The flavours are the deep grooves sliced in its wake: wild strawberry, cassis, the salty tang of sea-spray. It’s silky concentration and cool herbal depth, contoured and impossibly long, finishing with the delicate scrape of chalky finesse. A wine of pure, pulsing motion. (PS)